Hiro Yanagimachi - My Made-to-measure Commission with the Japanese Master Shoemaker
- Derek
- May 29, 2019
- 5 min read
My first blog post is dedicated to a Japanese bespoke shoemaker I have long admired – Hiro Yanagimachi. In this article, I’d like to share a bit about my recent made-to-measure (MTM) commission from the maestro.
Background
For many shoes enthusiasts, you may know Hiro san as one of the pioneers representing the new wave of Japanese bespoke shoemakers influenced by the English style tradition.
Hiro-san’s works are well-received in the bespoke shoemaking spectrum and his footprints are all over the social media (mainly via his Instagram account - @hiroyanagimachi1999).
Last year, I began studying and researching about different Japanese shoemakers after reaching a point where I felt like I should try something other than ready-to-wear shoes. It was also at this point I found the article “Buyer’s guide – Bespoke prices” on the Shoegazing Blog which covered many useful information in this regard. Just when I was learning and comparing different styles of the master shoemakers, Hiro san happened to announce on his Instagram that he’s coming to Hong Kong for his first trunk show in town. Call it fate, call it destiny - this was a golden chance that I could not miss.
The Ordering Process
The trunk show was held in Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, where I got the chance to meet Hiro san himself and Konomi san, who worked as a closer and pattern maker at Hiro’s workshop. [Note: As Hiro san never compromises when it comes to fit, an initial in-person meeting is prerequisite and online ordering will not be accepted.]
We started off with the fitting process, Hiro san first enquired about my normal size for ready-to-wear shoes (which was UK7 in most of the cases). And then I was given sample test shoes of similar sizes (UK6.5 to 7.5) and different lasts to find out my best fit. Hiro san quickly identified that I had a relatively high instep, as compared to most of his Asian customers who generally have flatter and wider feet. He therefore suggested that among his in-house base lasts, the International Last would be the right way to go. For readers’ information, the International Last was developed, drawing references from Hiro’s fitting survey at Skomaker Dagestad several years ago, to better suit for European and American clients’ type of feet.
After determining the size and last, we proceeded to the measurement session during which my feet were fully examined by Hiro san. This is a crucial stage which Hiro san and his customer would discuss whether MTM or even bespoke services are needed after measuring the dimensions and examining specific individual features/peculiarities of the client’s feet.
‘You do not have tricky feet, Derek san. Only minor modifications would be needed.’
As Hiro continued to examine the pressure points with my feet wearing the International Last, one thing he noticed is that more room would be needed for my fifth toes. Actually, my fifth toes has long been an issue as quite a lot of ready-to-wear lasts pinches much at this area unless I compromise and size up (but then the creasing issue arises as the shoes are simply way too large). Now with Hiro’s help, I’ve got the best of both worlds.
After the fitting and measurement, Hiro san, Konomi san and I sat down and discussed the makeup of the commission, which included the following aspects:
Model
Hiro san offers a relatively wide range of models (over 50, ranging from oxford, derby, monks, boots to even lazymans) to choose from for MTO/MTM orders. I had austerity oxford in my mind before the trunk show, but when I was introduced to the 5-eyelet split-toe derby (Model: L33), which according to Hiro san is the most sought-after model, I simply couldn’t say no to the cleanest apron stitching I’ve ever seen.
Leather
I would say this was the toughest decision among all. Hiro san showed me tons of leather samples which were all of amazing quality. But then the incredible textures of the espresso embossed calf, sourced from French Tanneries du Puy, really got me in. The leather came with a lovely dark brown shade and the rough surface should withstand wet weather well. [Note: Konomi san also added that upper work and stitching for this material tended to be more difficult as it was in nature harder than most leathers that she came across.]
Other details (functional and ornamental)
For this commission, I went for the simplest sole construction method in which the shoes are made with machine-stitched leather soles. Vibram’s half rubber soles and toe steel were also installed to add extra protection. I will save the hand-sewn soles and fiddle back waist for my next commission with Hiro san – taking one step at a time.
I also ordered a pair of color-matching flat laces with silver aglets. I always prefer flat to round laces, it’s just a matter of personal preference.
At the end of the appointment, it is Hiro’s practice to take photo of the face of the client.
‘I want the people at the workshop to know the owner of the shoes’, the master said.
How awesome is that!
The Final Result
The production time for the MTM order was expected to be 6 months and it’s proven to be accurate. I received an email from Hiro san in early April that my order was completed and the shoes were ready for delivery.
The shoes arrived with a lovely shoe box, an extra pair of round laces, burgundy shoe bag and beautiful shoe trees. All shoes coming from the Workshop will be hand-polished by artisan, so they shine well straight out of the box.
One thing worth mentioning is the finishing of the shoes. The linings and trimmings of the uppers are completed to the highest standards. The stitching around the apron and split are also the cleanest I’ve ever seen (exactly the same high standard I saw on the sample shoes during the trunk show). Hiro’s devotion to perfection is also seen in the tight and dense sole stitches – simply quality stuff.
In terms of fit, the arch support is impeccable giving the wearer high comfort. And Hiro san is absolutely correct about using International Last as the base last, now the shoes leave no unnecessary space between my feet and the uppers.
Hiro san is also kind enough to share some useful tips to break in the shoes. As I broke in the shoes according to Hiro san’s instruction, the creases created on the upper vamp are discreet and clean.
The width modifications also turned out really good, making the tensions even throughout the shoes. As a result, the shoes fit like glove from day one and I didn’t feel any pain that I usually would have over my fifth toe proximal phalanx area as I broke in RTW shoes.
Conclusion
The overall idea behind this commission is to create a pair of fine shoes which I can wear 7 days a week covering both formal and causal occasions, I honestly think Hiro san has managed to strike a perfect balance between comfort and aesthetic. His works are truly one-of-a-kind. Surely I’ll get a lot of use from these for many years ahead.
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